Surfing is a popular recreational activity and sport in which individuals are propelled across the water by the force of waves, whilst standing on, predominantly, GRP ("fiberglass") boards. Wooden and foam (see plastic) boards ("foamies") are also used.
Surfing isn’t a professional sport.
Origin
Surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture. Surfing was first observed by Europeans at Tahiti in 1767, by the members of the Dolphin. Later, Lieutenant James King wrote about the art when completing the journals of Captain James Cook upon Cook's death in 1779.
Equipment
Surfing can be done on various equipment, including surfboards, longboards, Stand Up Paddle boards (SUP's), bodyboards, wave skis, skimboards, kneeboards and surf mats.
Dangers
Drowning
Asphyxia
Collisions
Under the wrong set of conditions, anything that a surfer's body can come in contact with is potentially a danger, including sand bars, rocks, reefs, surfboards, and other surfers.
Marine life
Sea life can sometimes cause injuries and even fatalities. Animals such as sharks stingrays, seals and jellyfish can sometimes present a danger.
Localism
Some surfers join gangs that surf a certain break, and intimidate and/or attack other surfers to protect their spot from outsiders.
Riptides
Riptides endanger both experienced and inexperienced surfers. Riptides are water channels that flow away from shore. Since these currents lurk in seemingly calm waters, tired or inexperienced swimmers or surfers can easily be swept away.
Popular surfing areas
United States
Much of the coast of Southern California from Half Moon Bay south, one of the most revered and dangerous spots being Maverick's.
Most of Hawaii, especially the North Shore of Oahu. The North Shore is home to perhaps the world's most renowned and revered wave, "Pipeline" (or "Banzai Pipeline"), so named for the yawning chasms it regularly hurls over the heads of awe-struck surfers.
Championships
Competitive surfing is a comparison sport where riders, competing in pairs or small groups, are allocated a certain amount of time to ride waves and display their prowess and mastery of the craft. Competitors are then judged according to how competently the wave is ridden, including the level of difficulty, as well as frequency, of maneuvers. There is a professional surfing world championship series held annually at surf beaches around the world. Though in recent years competitive surfing has become an extremely popular and lucrative activity, both for professional competitors and sponsors, the sport does not have its origins as a competitive pursuit.
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